AMAZON ADVENTURE Part one: Getting there & getting settled

The following is my husband’s log of his recent fishing trip to the Brazilian Amazon which he has graciously agreed to share. I jealously bid him bon voyage acknowledging that it just didn’t make sense for me to travel to Brazil as well. My only Brazilian experience was in November 2007 for a long weekend to Rio de Janeiro. (see picture of me in a downpour) I would return in a heartbeat and am anxious to explore more of the country. Soon…soon…I hope.

Here’s part one of John’s report:

Brazil 2009
Pre Trip Notes:
An e mail followed by a phone call on January 5 told me our trip scheduled for January 9 -19 was cancelled due to flooding in the Amazon basin. Following the weather, I stayed in touch with him the rest of the month and learned there were openings the first two weeks of March and that the water was dropping. Elaine and Tweedsmuir Travel Co. changed airline arrangements at added expense. I opted for the first week of March to facilitate my Brazilian visa which would expire on March 8. Because the Brazilian airline, TAM, flight was fully booked on the day I wanted to travel, I needed to fly a day early thereby necessitating an additional night at the top end and expensive Tropical Hotel. I confirmed all arrangements with everyone involved the day before I left for Miami.


Friday February 27, 2009
Miami to Manaus
I took the 5 AM shuttle to the airport from the Hampton Inn and had no trouble checking in for the 7 AM TAM flight that left on time. Coach cabin was full and the seats very cramped and it was odd to see first class practically empty. I had no chance for that cushy cabin because American Airlines is not a code-share with TAM. I enjoyed talking with a fellow from Hilton Head, SC on his way to fish peacock bass at Agua Boa. I wondered if he and his friends were fly fishers and though did not ask suspected they were not. Customs and immigration was not a problem and I was met by Brahma, originally from Trinidad & Tobago, who whisked me to Tropical Manaus Hotel room 1434. I walked the grounds and along the Rio Negro River before returning to the room. A nap from 4:30 – 6 PM was much needed. I enjoyed a Skol cerveja from the mini bar but could not translate Desce Redondo on the label due to my lack of Portuguese language skill. The main dining room called Karu looked too formal for me alone so I dined at the Brasil Café within the hotel and enjoyed pirarucu fish entrée. Sombremesa (aka postre aka dessert) was tropical and over the top and filling. I drifted off to sleep after reading a bit of Bill Bryson’s The Lost Continent, my read for the week.

Saturday February 28, 2009
Manaus, Brazil
I slept in until nearly 8 AM and headed for the hotel coffee shop. It, too, looked too formal so I went to the lobby bar for my morning coffee. I ordered a regular size coffee but was served an espresso. My lack of Portuguesa language skill strikes again. Now that I was jolted awake, I had a regular coffee then headed for another walk along the river. There was not the stiff breeze that I experienced the afternoon before and the humidity was thick. Brahma called me in my room at 10:30 to say the other fellows arrived during the night and were going on a city tour at 11 AM. First person I met was Pat, brother of Jeff whom I fished with in Venezuela in December 2007. Pat is heading our group to River Xeriuni. Next was Mac from Sacramento, then Jay from Seattle. We walked to the lobby and I met Mac’s roommate Bill, also from Sacramento. Jack was next due a handshake and he hails from Pinole, CA and is a friend of Jay.

The seven of us took a van to Manaus and first saw the banana mart followed by the fish and meat market. The fish and meat market are next to each other with fish market closest to river front. There are rows upon rows, stall like with individual vendors displaying the fresh fish. There are more varieties of fresh water fish caught and sold from the Amazon than all fish found in the Atlantic Ocean I was told but find hard to believe. The market displayed incredible varieties of fish for sale and I took pictures of many. Most fish were whole but some filleted. There was NOT a strong fishy smell nor were there many flies. Every vendor had a machete type knife and some smaller knives but I saw not one thin bladed flexible filet knife as I know them. Still, the fish mongers filleted their fish with the implements they had. I took several pictures of fish but there were literally hundreds of varieties. There was plenty of running water (how clean?) to flush the marble and/or stone counters where they worked and displayed the fish. The flushings ran off the counters into a trough on either side of the aisles where the patrons walked, looking to see what they might buy. Water resistant shoes would be handy. The place was very busy and we stood out as obvious tourists but we saw others as well. We ventured just briefly into the adjoining meat market where every type of meat was on display including organ meats. The operation looked clean and I would have made a purchase given the need not fearful of diseased goods. But then I am a trusting sort. Two blocks away was the banana market where a huge variety of bananas were for sale from bunches to a few. Plantains were prevalent but so were types of every size and color one could imagine. I saw this in the Philippines but nowhere else. Nearby was a covered mart selling trinkets and souvenirs from stuffed tropical fish, to Indian made goods including blow darts and headdresses, clothing, and all the goods one associates with special off the beaten path places like the Amazon.

Next on our agenda was the 1896 Teatro Amazonas (Opera House) for a guided tour. The European rubber barons of the era had to have their culture and so built an opulent structure. Our excellent guide, Sue Ellen, divided her time between Portuguese speaking folk and us. Her English was impeccable. Unfortunately (for me), flash photos are not allowed so what I took are rather dismal.

When we returned I met Allen just in from Miami, who hails from western Massachusetts (Pittsville) and I moved into room 1506 with him. I toured the zoo compound at the hotel while he rested and saw many Amazonian animals as chronicled in my photos. I went back to see the jaguar and ocelet at 6 PM when they were prancing about but did not want to disturb them with flash photo. I met father and son Ed and Jeremy from Pennsylvania and the bunch of us piled into Brahma’s van for a drive to Bufalo, our dining establishment. I was introduced to the Brazilian national drink of caipirinha made with cachaca, a high-proof sugarcane alcohol and served with lots of squeezed lime, then ate a wonderful meal of garlic prawns, sushi, salad, various meats brought to the table ala Carnivore restaurant that Elaine and I partook of in Nairobi three years ago. Actually, the meat in Argentina is far and away superior to either of these two places. Mac, Jay, and I shared two bottles of Malbec wine. We were all tucked away by 10 PM in anticipation of our adventure that starts tomorrow.

Sunday March 1, 2009
Manaus to River Xeriuni via Barcelos
Brahma awakened everyone at 5 AM via telephone and we left for the airport after breakfast. Flight was delayed due to fog but we were airborne at 8:30. Flying over the Rio Negro and over the jungle was very interesting and I took many a picture with fairly clear view below the wing of the float plane with wheels. Pat took a commercial flight to Barcelos where we picked him up. (see map for location) We arrived at our destination at 10 AM and landed just downstream in the river from camp. We circled over the camp in float plane prior to landing just downstream and out of sight. 30 hp powered boats about 20 ft long brought outgoing guests and luggage to plane and took us (nine in all) and our luggage to the camp. When we approached I first saw a small (about 30') tug like looking boat that I later learned was a supply boat and was only there for a short while. Next was a barge type small (about 20') boat covered with a tarp over the huge diesel generator than supplied the entire camp with electricity @ 110 volts suitable for our computers and camera batteries. Next was the cooking cabin then the dining cabin. These were slightly larger than the live-in cabins. All are on pontoons and are just slightly beached onto the sand but for the most part are floating in the river. The sleeping cabins accommodated two people each with pumped river water for basin and shower. Each cabin had a toilet that was self contained with holding tank between the pontoons. Each two people had at their disposal a guide with aforementioned boats and motors. There was one other bigger boat with 70 hp motor used to move the entire flotilla up or down the river as desired to another white sand beach.

We settled in, ate lunch, and went fishing. Toothless Ivo (64 yrs old) took us downstream at 11:30 and we began catching tucunare (peacock bass) right away. Most were small and I doubt if any of mine were over three pounds. All were on intermediate orange line with Elkhorn rod and S A #2 reel. This is the same outfit I use for striped bass at home. It was one of two outfits I used all week.

We quit at 5 PM which would be typical for the week. Edson was our server at all meals. There were two women in camp plus a boss man whom we never met and a very shy five year old boy. A huge generator, at the far end of camp kept us comfortable all night supplying electricity for A/C. It also afforded me to keep my computer operating and my camera battery charged. I used both every day. A/C ran all night and lights were available as well. The staff had tents for sleeping and two wooden canoes for fishing on their own. All spoke Portuguese and little though some English. All were very accommodating and seemingly very happy and certainly very friendly. They did, however, keep to themselves when not guiding or serving us. Meals were served by one person. The men played soccer on the beach in the evenings after guiding we fisher folk all day 7:30 AM until 5 PM. Mosquitoes are unknown on these dark, acidic waters but no see'ums more than make up for them and bite as voraciously if not more. There were a few stinging insects, as well. We saw caimans during the day away from camp but saw no snakes, cougars, or any worrisome animals while in camp. The sand beaches are very white, fine grain, and clean. The birds at dawn and dust were raucous but we saw and heard no monkeys. It rained a lot and very hard at times both night and day. The cabins remained dry inside but the humidity is another force to be reckoned with at 90% most of the time. It was never uncomfortably hot but the sun was intense and skin burned easily and rapidly without blocking protection. All in all, camp was very comfortable and local foods of fresh fish, meats and vegetables supplied from Manaus, plenty of bottled water, sodas, good coffee and tea if desired, candied sweets and freshly made breads, cookies, and cakes were all it took to stay healthy and well fed.

to be continued...