After a fantastic visit to New Orleans last October filled with good meal after good meal (read about it here) I eagerly hoped I would return “some day” to repeat the experience. That someday was scheduled when Roadfood choose New Orleans as the site of their 2009 Roadfood Festival. The Roadfood people have inspired and directed me to good eating all across the country. This was an opportunity too enticing to pass up.
All of our meals were good.Is that too much of an understatement? Our first night we settled on Cochon, 930 Tchoupitoulas, based on a Tablehopper recommendation. Thank you Marcia, it was yummy. We had Shrimp & Deviled Egg Gumbo, Paneed Pork cheeks with Goat Cheese, Smoked Beef Brisket with Horseradish Potato Salad and the special Soft-Shell crab. We later heard raves about a recently opened extension, Cochon Butcher, just around the corner but were disappointingly unable to fit in a visit. As point of interest to my fellow San Francisco foodies, chef Donald Link has put in his time at SF restaurants such as the Elite Café and Jardinaire.
The next day was the incredible Largest Po’boy. It was 330 feet long on Bourbon Street and quite the thing to be a part of. I especially love the blessing offered “Dear Lord … Bless this Sandwich.” Amen. What took over an hour to construct was devoured in less than three minutes. John & I were front and center and thoroughly enjoyed our tidbits of oyster po’ boy. I would have taken a picture to document what we ate but my fingers were covered in sauce, hence the aftermath photo. The Po’ Boy crowd paraded down a block to Royal Street for the Roadfood Festival. Three blocks of tantalizing aromas greeted us. We perused and settled upon Shrimp Remolade Po’ Boys. Incredible.
Grazing our way from booth to booth on Bourbon Street we were shoulder to shoulder with many other Roadfood devotees along with Pirates in town for the PyrateCon Festival and athletes participating in the New Orleans Ironman Triathlon. As if Bourbon Street isn’t interesting enough already!?
Dinner that night was our main event: The Roadfood Crawfish and Shrimp Boil.
We queued up for the first bus, signed in, received our hats and boarded. Buses detoured by a New Orleans institution for over 70 years, Hansen’s Sno-Bliz at 4801 Tchoupitoulas at Bordeaux. Three flavors were featured for the Roadfoodies: satsuma, nectar and strawberry. With an optional topping of condensed milk if you choose. I opted for the tart satsuma with milk and John chose the nectar. Both were refreshing and fun.
Forty minutes down the road we pulled into The Bayou Barn where they had barrels of boiled crawfish, boiled shrimp, jambalaya and a pig roasting on a spit waiting for us. We slowed to get some shrimp and then made a bee-line for the crawfish. Staking a table conveniently between the keg of Abita and crawfish canoe we had a terrific time. Our fellow diners were great fun and we ate our fill keeping an eye on our other companions 5 to 6 alligators lurking in the bayou less than 15 feet from us. Occasionally one would venture closer for a snack…very atmospheric, but rather unnerving. A Cajun band played throughout the evening with many of the crowd trying their skill playing a washboard.
The evening ending with teams performing a Roadfood jingle vying for galley copies of Jane & Michael Stern’s new book: 500 Places to Eat Before it’s Too Late: and the Very Best Plaes to Eat Them, scheduled for release in June. I thought John’s jingle was a contender but he declined performing. Guess I’ll have to purchase a copy.
When we were finally able to eat again the next day we went to the Chartres House Restaurant for oyster platters. The food wasn’t as good as it could be but we were very satisfied with our balcony seats overlooking the panoply of humanity on the streets below. John happily waded through their special bloody mary which appeared to have everything but the kitchen sink in it. I spied a pickled green bean, pickled okra, an olive, and an onion but I suspect more swim beneath the surface.
Our final dinner was at La Cote Brasserie. We loved the raw oysters and Granny’s recipe: duck & andouille gumbo. The Bienville Oysters and Charbroiled Oysters didn’t wow us as much. The Bread Pudding was downright boring. Not bad just not worth it when there are oysters! If we were in town another day you would have found us back at La Cote for their dozen oysters for $7 happy hour special.
When we visited New Orleans last October I was charmed by the Monteleone Hotel. This New Orleans institution appears in literature and it the place to stay in the French Quarter. I took advantage of a special rate for Roadfooders and reserved a room, stepping out of my usual Hilton comfort zone. Upon checking in I was informed that we could check back the next to change rooms. Excuse me? “Yes, a very nice room with a view might be available if we appear at the desk between 11AM and 12PM the next day.” My fears were confirmed when I slipped the key into the door of room 1227. Out of 600 guestrooms we won the jackpot and were awarded one of 14 rooms without a window. I was not pleased but I must admit it was beautifully appointed. We didn’t linger in the room and the next day checked out and moved to the Warehouse District Embassy Suites where we had two windows and a balcony and all of the perks Hilton properties offer a frequent guest. I’m not suggesting that you avoid the Monteleone Hotel. Just be very, very specific that your room have a window (one windowless broom closet is on every floor with a room number ending in 27).
We still visited The Hotel Monteleone’s Carousel Bar daily. This revolving bar looks out over Royal Street and serves THE BEST Sazaracs, Vieux Carre’s and Ramos Fizz’s. One 15 minute rotation of the bar helps to make a day in New Orleans all that much more fun!
Continuing on my fascination with the Highpointers: The highest point in Louisiana is Driskell Mountain.
“When most people think of Louisiana, mountains are the last thing to come to mind and with good reason. This state is one of 3 in the U.S. with its lowest point located below sea level, and its highest point is the 3rd lowest in the country; only Florida's Britton Hill and Delaware's Ebright Azimuth are lower than this 163m (535ft) bump known as Driskill Mountain. The area is very densely forested as is common in the Piney Woods of East Texas and Louisiana.”
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/151925/driskill-mountain.html
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