San Bernardino County, California

We exited Joshua Tree National park into the ninth of the 58 counties of my home state of California, San Bernardino County. San Bernardino County is enormous! It is larger than any other county in the continental U.S. and larger than the nine smallest states. The area of 20,052 square miles makes it roughly equal in size to Israel. The county was established in 1853, from part of Los Angeles County and was named for Saint Bernardino of Siena. Estimated population in 2008 is 2,015,353 with the bulk residing in a western sliver.

We drove through the Mojave Desert to Victorville to spend the night. Victorville was a somewhat random selection: it was within our range for the day and had a Hilton property. Not one of my favorite destinations, Victorville has some of the qualities of a American suburban sprawl that makes me cringe. Mile after mile of malls and chain restaurants line the highway. It wasn’t all bad, we had a great meal at El Tio Pepe Mexican Restaurant, a property that they assure me was not a part of a chain. When I inquired I received an adamant “We are the ONLY one!” Victorville has other claims to fame: Sammy Davis Jr. was in a car accident there in 1954 and lost his left eye as a result. Route 66 goes directly through Victorville. Roy Rogers and Dale Evans are still honored here with street names but their museum relocated in 2003 to Branson, MO.

The next morning we got on I 15 bound for Death Valley. Interstate 15 is the direct route from Los Angeles to Las Vegas. Wikipedia states that San Bernardino is well known for is Chicano gangs. I wasn’t aware of this and saw no evidence but the number of CHP and county sheriff vehicles we saw on I 15 seemed to indicate that the law is most concerned with writing speeding tickets. Thank goodness for cruise control!

We passed the exit for the Calico Ghost Town. Lambert Florin, author of Ghosts Towns of The West writes “The town began to die in 1892 and became more feeble until 1929, when it lay down and quit breathing entirely”. Walter Knott, of Knots Berry Farm fame, resuscitated the silver mining town. He reportedly worked there in 1910 at the age of 13 and his nostalgia was just the CPR the town needed. Now attractions include a mine tour, mystery shack and train ride.

Nearby is the Calico Early Man Archeological Site, an excavation begun by Dr. Louis Leakey in 1964. More intriguing to me than a ghost town, I would love to take the guided tour someday.

Also intriguing was the town of Zzyzx. The exit sign generated all sorts of silly commentary in our car. Just say it out loud… Fun isn’t it? We know how to have a good time!